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Issan - A Beginners Guide

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  • Issan - A Beginners Guide

    This is my 4th trip here in a year, so following Madfrogs thread, i thought i would let you all know what to expect when your loved one says "come home with me"!!

    For a brief back ground the following is taken from Wiki.

    It is located on the Khorat Plateau, bordered by the Mekong River (along the border with Laos) to the north and east, by Cambodia to the southeast and the Prachinburi mountains south of Nakhon Ratchasima. To the west it is separated from Northern and Central Thailand by the Phetchabun mountain range.

    From the beginning of the 20th century this region in northeastern Thailand was officially named as Isan, a term adopted from Sanskrit Ishan that means €œnorth east direction.€ The term "Isan" was originally derived from Isanapura, capital of the Chenla kingdom. The Lao-speaking people from this region, who comprise a majority of the population, distinguish themselves not only from the Lao of Laos but in addition also the central Thai by calling themselves later as Khon Isan, or Thai Isan. The Khmer and Kuy (Suai) who live in the southern part of the northeast region of Thailand communicated in languages and follow customs that are more similar to Cambodia than to the tradition of either the Thai people or the Lao people.

    Isan is the poorest region of Thailand: in 2002 average wages were the lowest in the country at 3,928 baht per month (the national average was 6,445).

    The region's poverty is also shown in its infrastructure: eight of the ten provinces in Thailand with the fewest physicians per capita are in Isan (Sisaket has fewest, with one per 14,661 in 2001; the national average was 3,289); it also has eight of the ten provinces with the fewest hospital beds per head (Chaiyapum has fewest, with one per 1,131 in 2001; the national average was 453). Nevertheless, as in the rest of Thailand, all districts (Amphoe) have a hospital, and all sub districts (tambon) have a clinic providing primary health care. The introduction of the "30 baht" health card has dramatically changed the numbers of those attending hospitals for treatment, as it has meant that full health care is available to all who register for only 30 baht per visit. The few who can afford it travel to the modern private hospitals and clinics in the large cities for non-urgent specialist consultations and care.

    The region also lags in new technology: there was only one Internet connection per 75 households in 2002 (national average one per 22 households), [update needed] but by 2006 every district town (amphoe) had at least one publicly accessible internet connection, either in the local computer shop or in the district office. Extension of landline telephones to remote areas not previously served has been largely superseded by the use of cell phones, primarily of the GSM format, which now covers the entire region with the exception of a few sparsely populated mountainous areas and large national parks. Many people, even the poorest and sometimes children, have cellular telephones, although they have no fixed-line telephone. The region also has the lowest literacy rate [source?] when compared with other regions in Thailand. By the beginning of 2008, most of the amphoe (district towns of the provinces) had been provided with ADSL by the TOT, still leaving, however, the vast majority of the rural population dependent on dial-up connections - for those who have landline telephones - which are totally inadequate for the megabyte-hungry packages of data of 21st century information. Internet shops are now experiencing a boom for those able to get to them, and are heavily patronized by primary and secondary schoolchildren who come not only to use the Internet but also to play on-line games, use VOIP, or just to use the computer and printing facilities. An increasingly significant number of customers in the Internet shops, particularly in the cities, are young ladies searching for future Western husbands on the numerous dating sites. Resident Western expatriates, and foreign tourists are also frequent customers. For those outside the district towns who require a serious use of the Internet in their homes, an iPstar broadband satellite connection is the only alternative; although four times more expensive than a DSL connection, it is far less reliable and suffers considerable down-time due to overloading, heavy cloud cover, and rain and despite - in theory - being €˜always on€™, it often lacks the stability for streaming and clarity of VOIP.
    Attached Files
    seriously pig headed,arrogant,double standard smart ass poster!


  • #2
    With that out of the way I will continue on the little bit about where i stay and what we do all day.

    I have a few photos which will be posted once i get home and resize.

    From Bangkok, the easiest way is by Plane to your destination city. with the growth of Air Asia it is now easy to get around Thailand cheaply and quickly, though from the village I am in, the bus is the main form of transport, with them not thinking about taking a 2 day journey to Phuket.

    I have now learnt that you need 4 things to survive an Issan Trip:

    1. A car/mode of transport. Easy and cheap to rent at the Airport

    2. Somewhere to stay away from the Abode!

    3. Internet Access - we use a AIS dongle which can be topped up anywhere

    and,

    4. A good sense of Humour and always a smile.
    seriously pig headed,arrogant,double standard smart ass poster!

    Comment


    • #3
      This trip was slightly different in that the immediate family had joined us for a few days holiday in Hua Hin. This in itself was an adventure as they were totally bemused by the traffic/food/farang/malls etc; but more on this later.

      We left Hua Hin and were driven to Bangkok Airport where we got a flight to Udon Thani. From there we rented a car for the 140km drive to the village.

      I have been here, and driven before so they were no surpises. the Avis guy was good and we were on our way within a few minutes.

      Highway 210 go straight from Udon to Loei, via Nong Bua Lamphu where we stay, and this is about a 40minute drive from the village.
      seriously pig headed,arrogant,double standard smart ass poster!

      Comment


      • #4
        Looking forward to a good read KL
        Did you exchange a walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage

        Comment


        • #5
          (katoeylover @ Jan. 14 2011,13:16) This is my 4th trip here in a year...
          WHAT!!!      

          You must be feeling very comfortable with your adopted family. How different is it now to when you first visited? Are the locals more forthcoming? Or are you still looked on as someone out of place? You know what I mean, do they gossip about you still?

          I remember your first visit with those lovely photos of having lunch out on the lake. Have you discovered any other special locations? I think I speak for all when I say we are hungry for news about Issan. Looking forward to your posts & pictures.
          Despite the high cost of living, it continues to be popular.

          Comment


          • #6
            They love me!!

            Actually the family and most in the village treat me well enough. The language is the only barrier but Papa looks after me well and keeps me stocked up on coffee and electric.

            I think the secret is just to keep on smiling and eat the food.

            More to come.
            seriously pig headed,arrogant,double standard smart ass poster!

            Comment


            • #7
              Actually 5 - last January, songkran, July, october and am here now.

              Its actually great to get away amd actually relax a bit though this trip i have had too much work!!

              Now we have the house built, it is a nice spot.
              seriously pig headed,arrogant,double standard smart ass poster!

              Comment


              • #8
                I Like it
                so keep it coming KL this is a must for any wannabe adventurer



                SW„¢
                http://www.youtube.com/user/CT8982

                Comment


                • #9

                  katoeylover · Posted on Jan. 14 2011,18:58


                  They love me!!

                  Actually the family and most in the village treat me well enough. The language is the only barrier but Papa looks after me well and keeps me stocked up on coffee and electric.

                  I think the secret is just to keep on smiling and eat the food.


                  We all love you!!!

                  I thought it was you who looked after Papa, keeping him supplied with whiskey!

                  You never had a problem either with smiling or eating food

                  Keep up the reporting from these strange lands!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I think we could safely call KL an 'accomplished' adventurer
                    Did you exchange a walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Quick funny story - ie rip off the farang

                      Got in late wednesday night. Madame hadnt booked a hotel so we turn up at the local hotel in Nong Bua.

                      Guess what - we're full - only have "big room" available at 1000bt!

                      It was great, big bed, 35" flatscreen, Jacuzzi. Except No hot water!

                      We moved out the next day into the 500bt smaller room!
                      seriously pig headed,arrogant,double standard smart ass poster!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        (thegame925 @ Jan. 14 2011,19:09) You never had a problem either with smiling or eating food
                        thats because he does it in that order.. smile and then eat. Is it possible to eat the food and then smile KL...mmmm

                        Hope your enjoying up there. To cold for me this time of year..bbbrrrrr

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                        • #13


                          not wrong - it was 12c last night. sweater wearing weather!
                          seriously pig headed,arrogant,double standard smart ass poster!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            In Issan the main places to stay are "resorts".

                            These are a group of chalets that offer pretty basic facilities - ie a bed, tv, bathroom with shower. They also double as the local short time rooms. They are fine if you just want to sleep but the lack of facilities (food and drink) make them sort of impractical for the longer stay.

                            Most major towns will have a hotel or 2 and these range from a bad 3 star to 1 star. most are older, think faded glory and 80's kitsch.

                            In Nong Bua there are 2 hotels - The Nattapong Grand (where we stay) and the Kinaree Hotel. We have stayed at both and prefer the former. It has a swimming pool and this trip a brand new restaurant,

                            These towns are basic, an odd 7/11 or equivalent and they sell no western foods. You need to be going to the bigger cities for those luxuries! Things revolve around the market. fresh food is bought daily as most have basic refrigeration, and there is a good supply of most things. More on the food to come.

                            In the villages, there will be small stores formed in the front yard of the houses, and this is where you can buy a sachet of shampoo or a single cigarette to drink with a shot of Thai whiskey and all for under 10bt.
                            seriously pig headed,arrogant,double standard smart ass poster!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Food and Drink

                              This is the land of Som Tam and sticky rice, and you have to be brave to face the spicy salad here. A handful of chillies with papaya, tomatoes, fish sauce etc and a small crab to add flavour. This tastes great, but it is hot as hell itself!

                              Sticky rice is the staple and is everywhere. The small wicker containers are passed around and the rice is nibbled on or moulded into a patty and food added.

                              Also there is the noodle soup - pork or chicken in broth. Dont be surprised when a mass of chillies, fish sauce and sugar are added to taste. After this it tastes like, well chillies and sugar and fish sauce!!

                              Going out to eat with the clan is always an adventure. As the Farang you are expected to pay. Dont be offended. This is the way. You have money - they dont. Period.
                              There are 2 or 3 favourites. The best (for me) is the Issan BBQ - a hot plate in the middle of the table is covered by an upside down metal bowl with a lip. Fire underneath heats this up and a dollop of pork fat is put on top to create the fat for cooking. a broth is poured into the lip and veggies are added. Cook Pork, chicken squid and prawns. A spicy sauce is a usual accompaniment. Good food and good fun. I always wonder what EU Health and safety execs would make of it!!

                              Secondly, in daylight hours, there is the pontoon restaurants. You rent a pontoon, order food and drift into the middle of a lake. food is sent out by canoe to the pontoon.. A great day out.

                              Lastly there is the regular restaurant which will be based on local cuisine.
                              seriously pig headed,arrogant,double standard smart ass poster!

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